My current hand-held meter is an old Gossen Luna Star F2. Yes it’s old but it’s also small, lightweight and takes reflected or the incident readings I like to use when making portraits. (Incident metering reads the intensity of light falling on the subject, rather than what’s reflected by it.) The meter also measures flash, making corded or non-corded flash readings in my studio. Tip: If you don’t own a hand held meter but do have a smartphone, consider Pocket Light Meter, an iPhone app that lets you to use your phone as a light meter.
While working with portrait subjects, I like to measure the light on both sides of a person’s face to determine the lighting ratio.
There are all kinds of rules of thumb telling you what the ideal ratio is but Renaissance painters used a technique called chiaroscuro that featured ratios that would make most studio photographer’s hair stand on end but created art that has transcended the centuries. The “right” ratio—for you—will vary depending on the shape of the subject’s face and the look you want to produce for the final image.
Andria appears in my book “Available Light Glamour Photography” is available from Amazon with some of their associate vendors (non-Prime) selling new copies of the book for just $9.99 plus shipping, which is a heckuva deal for one of my favorite books.